If you missed the first part, you can find it here.
Hope you’re ready for a picture overload! There were a lot of steps to installing this bad boy and I plan to show you every one of them
Let’s start with what to buy. This is the hardware we bought: (click the links to find where I ordered them):
Since they were in zinc finish (because it was cheapest), we spray painted all of the hardware black. We didn’t spray the part that rolls through the box rail because you can’t see it and we didn’t want it to stick…more details on that later.
Disclaimer: we have an old piece of carpet in our garage that we use as a drop cloth. Although I wouldn’t put it past myself, I did not accidentally spray paint carpet in my house. Over ‘n out.
The box rail also had to be trimmed to fit the door. We cut it twice the width of the door, plus an inch for wriggle room…er…sliding room. We used a Sawsall
(reciprocating saw) to cut it. Sorry, no pics of this step since it took both of us to cut it.
In order for the door to sit far enough off the wall, we needed to add two 2×4′s for the box rail to attach to. If we didn’t do this, the door would have hit the door frame when it was sliding. We painted them the color of our walls so they will blend in.
To install the end cap, you just have to wedge it in the end of the box rail. We protected it with a cloth and just hammered it in. The paint scratched off a little, but I just touched it up after it was installed.
Now you can attach the hanger part to the door. Measure how far in you want to attach it and mark where to drill on the top of the door.
Attach the nuts and bolt to the hanger part as shown:
Hold it up to the door so you know how far to drill your hole. Since the hanger will sit flush against the door, there needs to be a hole for the bolt to sit in.
Drill the hole…
Then attach the rolling part to the hanging part. I know, these technical terms can be overwhelming.
This shows a little better how we didn’t paint the rolling part. No stickin rollers for us.
Now the hanger part fits flush against the top of the door since you drilled a hole for the bolt to slide in to.
Drill holes for the 3 bolts on the face of the door and tighten with a wrench on the back.
First one: done!
Do the second one same as above.
And now they’re both installed:
Now that the hardware is installed on the door, you can install the box rail to the wall. Find your studs (insert cliche joke about my stud being on the left in the picture below) and mark every stud.
Drill in the 2×4′s to each stud, making sure it’s level as you go.
This is when we realized we will need two 2×4′s…thus why the bottom one isn’t painted. I just painted it after it was up.
Now you can install the box rail to the 2×4′s. We bought 4 box rail attachments for the 6 feet of box rail.
Now that the box rail is up, you can slide the hanger in to the box rail. This door is HEAVY, so it definitely took both of us to slide it in. And this girl ain’t risking dropping this door for the sake of a picture. (So just imagine us awkwardly holding this ginormous, heavy door while trying to guide it in to the track). Once it’s in, install the second end cap.
We were a wee bit nervous sliding it for the first time…
…but it didn’t tumble to the ground! Success!
One of the best parts about this new door is we have room for a chair now. Before, the swinging door left no room for a chair. I borrowed this chair from our living room just to see how it would look, so I still have my eye out for the perfect chair.
The total cost for the hardware from Tractor Supply, tax included, was $130. Compared to similar track sets of $450, it’s a great deal.
I was a little worried about how loud it is, but it really isn’t very loud. It is metal rollers on a metal track, but the sound isn’t bad at all. And it’s very easy to slide.
Finishing this door was one big fat leap towards finishing our master bedroom. So, I’ll be posting the details of the master bedroom soon!