Sliding Barn Door: Install It

Alright, now that we have built our own rustic herringbone barn door, it’s time to DIY some heavy duty sliding barn door hardware so we can get it hung up. This door is heavy, so it’s important to buy the real thing. The hardware I chose is for an actual outdoor sliding barn door, so you know it will hold up!

I hope you’re ready for a picture overload!  There were a lot of steps to installing this bad boy and I plan to show you every one of them.

Disclaimer: This site contains product affiliate links. We may receive a commission if you make a purchase after clicking on one of these links.

Let’s start with what hardware to buy to hang the sliding door up.  You can purchase pre made kits like this one or this one, but for the purposes of this tutorial, this is what I bought:

Step 1: Gather Supplies

Since they were in zinc finish (because it was cheapest), we spray painted all of the hardware black.  We didn’t spray the part that rolls through the box rail because you can’t see it and we didn’t want it to stick…more details on that later.

Step 2: Prep the Hardware

Disclaimer: we have an old piece of carpet in our garage that we use as a drop cloth.  Although I wouldn’t put it past myself, I did not accidentally spray paint carpet in my house. Over ‘n out.

The box rail also had to be trimmed to fit the width of door.  We cut it twice the width of the door, plus an inch for wriggle room…er…sliding room.  We used a Sawsall (reciprocating saw) to cut it.  Sorry, no pics of this step since it took both of us to cut it.

In order for the sliding barn door to sit far enough off the wall, we needed to add two 2×4’s for the box rail to attach to.  If we didn’t do this, the door would have hit the door frame when it was sliding. We painted them the color of our walls so they will blend in. I trimmed these with our miter saw.

TIP: for tips on how to use a miter saw for beginners, check out this post!

To install the end cap, you just have to wedge it in the end of the box rail.  We protected it with a cloth and just hammered it in.  The paint scratched off a little, but I just touched it up after it was installed.

RELATED: All About DIY Sliding Barn Doors – Types, DIY Hardware, and Free Plans

Step 4: Install the Hardware to the Door and Wall

Now you can attach the hanger part to the herringbone barn door. Measure how far in you want to attach it and mark where to drill on the top of the door. Find a Beginner’s Guide to Using a Drill here.

Attach the nuts and bolt to the hanger part as shown:

Hold it up to the door so you know how far to drill your hole.  Since the hanger will sit flush against the door, there needs to be a hole for the bolt to sit in.

Drill the hole…

Then attach the rolling part to the hanging part.  I know, these technical terms can be overwhelming.

This shows a little better how we didn’t paint the rolling part.  This way, the rollers on the hardware for the sliding door won’t stick.

Now the hanger part fits flush against the top of the rustic barn door since you drilled a hole for the bolt to slide into.

Drill holes for the 3 bolts on the face of the door and tighten with a wrench on the back.

First one: done!

Do the second one same as above.

And now they’re both installed:

Step 5: Install the track to the wall

Now that the DIY heavy duty barn door hardware is installed on the door, you can install the box rail to the wall.  Find your studs (insert cliche joke about my stud being on the left in the picture below) and mark every stud.

Drill in the 2×4’s to each stud, making sure it’s level as you go.

This is when we realized we will need two 2×4’s…thus why the bottom one isn’t painted.  I just painted it after it was up.

Now you can install the box rail to the 2×4’s.  We bought 4 box rail attachments for the 6 feet of box rail.

Step 6: Install the Door on the Track

Now that the box rail is up, you can slide the hanger in to the box rail.  This door is HEAVY, so it definitely took both of us to slide it in.  And this girl ain’t risking dropping this door for the sake of a picture. (So just imagine us awkwardly holding this ginormous, heavy door while trying to guide it in to the track). Once it’s in, install the second end cap.

We were a wee bit nervous sliding it for the first time…

…but it didn’t tumble to the ground! Success!

You can read about how we made more rustic projects on a budget for our bedroom by making a queen farmhouse headboard and bed frame here!

One of the best parts about this new door is we have room for a chair now.  Before, the swinging door left no room for a chair.  I borrowed this chair from our living room just to see how it would look, so I still have my eye out for the perfect chair.

I was a little worried about how loud it would slide, but it really isn’t very loud.  It is metal rollers on a metal track, but the sound isn’t bad at all.  And it’s very easy to slide.

Finishing this DIY rustic herringbone sliding barn door was one big fat leap towards finishing our master bedroom. So, I’ll be posting the details of the master bedroom soon!

Find the web story for how to hang a sliding barn door here!

1,665 Comments

  1. Oh my goodness… Hanging it was more complicated than making it but the results are amazing. It is so beautiful. What a great way to add usable space to a room where a door swings. Great idea, Suzie. You and hubby did an amazing job.

      1. Hi, I hope that you’re still posting.
        I’m in the planning stage for a sliding barn door for my master bedroom, and would lime to use your idea, can you tell me what you did to the backside of your door?

  2. It looks amazing!!! What a great project and your tutorial is wonderful. I love the disclaimer about spray painting on carpet..it made me laugh. 🙂 Megan

  3. I love it! So rad! You guys did a great job. I’m thinking about doing a simoiar project in our bedroom to cover our patio slider. It’s huge, so it would be quite the project! Thank you for the inspiration. Love everything about this project!!!!

  4. That is incredible! I love it… and that chair already looks good there, btw. Great job!

    Visiting from AtoZ… Rhonda @ home.made.

    1. Thank you Rhonda. I’m a little sad there’s not more of that chair to go around, haha
      -Suzie

  5. Found you at House of Hepworths. I’m pinning this! This is hands down the best and most economical sliding door tutorial I’ve seen. The door is gorgeous too! Thanks for a great tutorial. I’ve gotta get to Tractor Supply!

  6. Found you on House of Hepworths. Love it! I want to do this more my office door. How is the paint on your trim and wall holding up behind the door? Do you find the door swings slightly and scratches it?

    1. Hi Nicole, since we added the 2×4’s, it sits off the wall enough that it doesn’t scratch it. It does swing a little, but it would have to do some major swinging for it to scratch.

      1. Thanks! Another question….Sorry. Is there a handle on the other side if the door? How is it trying to close it from the bathroom?

        1. That’s actually something we are still trying to figure out. A handle would hit the doorframe, so we are on the lookout for a small knob. If that doesn’t work, we are thinking about drilling a small hole (but big enough to slide it with a couple fingers). I’ll keep you updated!

          1. I think it would look really good and work well to mill in both sides about half an inch or so and find inset plates for a door grab! Even if you couldnt find plates it would probably work well milled, sanded and stained! Oh!! Boat hardware!! Just thought of that 🙂 you can find lots of stainless steel and brass hardware for boats that are designed to fit flush, some lay flat by gravity and some are spring loaded.
            Just google “sailboat hardware recessed” and you will find exactly what you need! 🙂

            Ironically Ive been thinking about installing a sliding door on our bedroom for a while, and if I can make it look good enough (with my limited woodworking skills;) then I might move on to other doors. The ironic part is that I was recently looking at the gear at Tractor Supply too! Interesting odds that I would find someone else that thought that barn doir equipment might look good elsewhere! …its so HARD to get out of there without spending money, they have like four big bins by the cash register, usually filled with discount tools and gadgets,and I rarely make it past them. Last two trips I think I spent over $150 on tools and ‘stuff’ out of those bins!! …its almost as bad as going to Harbor Freight! Thank God they dont have one of those stores close by!!

  7. I love your door! We are putting a barn door in our lake cottage, so I am researching ways to make our own and save some $. I was wondering what the back side of your door looks like. Did you make the same pattern on both sides?

    1. I just painted the back side black. It looks fine. I also sealed it with polyurathane.

  8. I just shared your project on my FB pages! It looks beautiful! Caught my eye instantly! Hope you can visit me 🙂

    ~Julie

  9. wow oh wow,,,,,,,,,your door is amazing and beautiful,,,you should be soooo very proud of it,,,,,

  10. That looks really great! In my laundry room I have two swinging “bar” type doors that I hate and there isn’t room for a real door so this would be a perfect solution to 1) get rid of the “bar” doors 2) Be able to close off my laundry room and it would completely match our farm house! Thanks, Sarah

    1. That was the main reason I wanted to get rid of our swinging doors – more space!! Would love to see how it looks in your space!

  11. Oh my! I was waiting to see this tute! 🙂 I am so doing this ASAP! I do NOT have a tractor supply, but my daughter does, so she’s going to pick it up for me and deliver to me when she visits for Mother’s day! woohoo!
    fabulous tute! thanks for sharing!
    gail

  12. I LOVE IT!!! It is just amazing! I found you through the addicted2decorating party. I can’t believe you got the hardware for $130! That’s such a crazy good deal. I have been hemming and hawing over how to hang a barn door, and now I know! I was planning on trying to rig something up myself with random metal pipes and bars, because the prices I was seeing were just way to high. We have this opening between our bedroom and “sink nook” that I really want to add a sliding door to, and now I can thanks! You’re awesome!

  13. I love it! I was just wondering the other day if you had ever done anything with your habitat wood. Tell J that I wish some of his handy helperness would rub off on my J that is NOT into handy helperness!

    1. Haha I will…although I left the details out about the coaxing that was required to hang it 🙂

  14. Suzie…could you tell me how thick your door is? Mine is only going to be about 1.5 inches, which seems to be too thin for the brackets and bolts.
    thanks!
    gail

    1. Gail, our door is 1.5″ thick too and it works great! See my comment above for more details 😉

        1. Oh sorry, I replied on Part 1 of this tutorial…thought that comment was on this post. Anyways, our door is exactly 1.5″ thick too. It would have rubbed if we had not added the 2 2×4’s to the wall before we attached the hanging part. But yes, a 1.5″ thick door works fine.
          As for the screws, we just used what came with the kit. So, if you buy a kit, you will have everything you need, aside from the box rail and box rail attachments. Make sense?

  15. I have one more question. What screws did you use on the brackets? Lag screws? Did they come with your stuff? Did you buy them separately? Thanks so much!
    gail

  16. Suzie,
    Lovely, wonderful comments, directions, photos… you thought of everything!
    Thanks so much, you are appreciated.

  17. Anyway you could post a pic of the back side of the door? Also did you use bottom rollers to keep the door from swinging? It looks great! I am headed to Tractor Supply tomorrow =)

    1. Awesome! let me know how it goes! I didn’t use bottom rollers and it works just fine. I’ll work on getting a pic a the back up!

  18. can you please advise on the hardware set from Tractor supply? They all looked galvanized and not in black. Thanks!

    1. Hi Amy, we spray painted the galvanized hardware black. I went in to more detail at the beginning of this post 🙂

  19. Love the door and hardware…looks like you paid a fortune for it! I agree with others that this is the best tutorial I’ve seen by far. Not only do you give step-by-step instructions, but you also share where you bought the hardware and the cost…thanks!

    Did you put a guide on the floor so the door could wouldn’t move outward when sliding the door open/closed?

    1. Thank you for the kind words, Sandra!
      We didn’t put a guide on the floor. Although there is some inward/outward movement on the door, it’s fine without it. However, if this was a door that we open and shut a lot, we might consider getting one. But for us right now, it’s fine without it.

  20. love your door. the wood is beautiful as well as the design. we also have a barn door for our main floor bath so that the door didn’t take up any space inside the room. we found our rollers, or i should say our cousin found them in his old barn. however, ours makes ALOT of noise when moved. its old so that’s how it rolls. lol.
    you can see ours at:
    http://the1829farmhouse.blogspot.com/2011/11/house-tour-bathroom.html
    found you via thistlewood farms & hometalk…so glad i did!

    1. oh my goodness, I would have LOVED to find hardware as beautiful as that! I would get over the noise with that beauty haha 🙂
      -Suzie

  21. I’m REALLY hoping I can find a tractor supply store in my area. I think this is the best DIY sliding Barn door hardware tutorial I’ve seen. I think you could make a nice little side business by buying all the parts and putting together a “Kit” to sell!

    Not kidding!

    1. Oh, how I would love that! If only there were more hours in the day 🙂
      I wonder if you can order part from Tractor Supply online if you don’t have one in your area? Good luck!
      -Suzie

  22. I was wondering if you had trouble with the door staying in place? Did you put anything to make it stop just right in front of the opening or do you just eyeball it every time?

    1. Honestly, we just eyeball it because we actually don’t open and close it very often. However, I believe you can insert the end cap further in the railing to make it stop where you want it to.
      -Suzie

  23. Just came across this project and am wondering how this would work as a door from the hallway into the bathroom. This is a one person household. Space is a real issue after downsizing my house by half. Thanks for the great info!

    1. I think it would work great…that’s why we did it in the first place. We wanted to use the corner. Go for it!

  24. Hi! Thank you for the wonderful tutorial! I just completed this project on a closet door using the same materials from a tractor store. I spent about the same amount, used Stanley and National parts. We also spray painted the galvanized metal black and it looks great. Used a 2x8header board instead of 2 2x4s and cut the 2×8 down to 2×7. I was able to hang the brackets for the box rail centered on the board. I used a standard door, 30″x80″, and added a nice handle. I did overlap the door over the doorway by 1″ on either side (28″ doorway).

    The only issue we have is that it’s a little bit of a tight fit on one of the brackets, the door doesn’t swing as easily as I would like. My husband tried to bend the brackets slights to allow the rollers to move more easily, but it’s still not perfect. We may have to take the door off and replace the brackets, I think they are pinching the box rail a little and causing it to be narow.

    Over, thank you again for your help, I used your suggestions and it looks great!

  25. I love your blog! I had been planning to do a sliding barn door in my spare bathroom but had been put off by the cost of the hang-ware. And then I found your blog and post — what a great solution! I got an old door from my restore, stained it, got all the hang-ware from tractor supply, and now have a great sliding door! Your directions were MOST helpful! Thank you!!!

  26. I love love love this.. Rustic if one of my favorite decors. You hit the nail on the head with this. My boyfriend will definitely be helping me with this project very soon!

  27. Thanks so much for the DETAIL photos of the hardware. I couldn’t find assembly instructions online for this Stanley hardware. Your door is beautiful and rustic!

  28. Hi, I’m wondering what you did on the back of the door. We want to do a door like yours for a large opening between the family room and the kitchen, so both sides need to be the “show” side. I’m nervous if I do ply in the middle and then do the finished design on BOTH sides, it’s going to be prohibitively heavy. Did you run into this problem? Thanks!

  29. This is perfect!!! The pictures help so much, and you make it very easy to follow! I’m installing a BIG one of these tomorrow on our storage shed and this just saved me some real stress 🙂 thanks for sharing!!!

  30. I was browsing the Web and came across this post and i must say this is awesome! I have a question about the hangers themselves, do they come in sets of 2 or did you have to buy them separate?

  31. a very gorgeous door; I am hoping to follow your tutorial and install a barn door to the laundry in our new house we are building; gorgeous door

  32. Hi! I am in the middle of doing this project, and I am following your awesome tutorial step by step. I can’t figure out for the life of me why you had to add the bottom 2×4. I bought the exact same hardware from Tractor Supply and it seems like it will fit on the one 2×4 just fine. Did you add the second 2×4 to impede the door from swinging back? Although I have bought all the materials, I am still in the door construction phase. I know there has to be a good reason that the bottom 2×4 was added, but I can’t figure it out. If you could let me know I’d be so thankfu! Thanks!

  33. Fantastic barn door hanger. I am sure I don’t have a tractor supply store around. Was it a kit you bought? If so, what was name of the kit and I will look on line. If not, could you make a list of the name and quantity of all the parts I would need to purchase from someone else. I would really appreciate it and I am sure there are a lot people will appreciate it also.

    Thanks,
    Tom

  34. Can you use this for a bathroom? How does it cover the doorway? Is it a clean cover? Is it flush with the wall? Do you have moulding around the doorway under the sliding hanging door? Thank you.

  35. WOW this is awesome! I love it! Great job and love your dog too. I love this blog now, going to be coming back a lot. and try to make my own door in a few weeks. PROPS!

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  37. Hi,

    I have a few important realistic questions.

    1. how do you close from inside. you couldn’t put a handle because it would stick out thefore you could not open or close this thing.

    2. how close do you actually get close to the moulding without scratching. would it be a bad idea for a washroom. i was thinking the “smells would seep through”

    these are the questions that i worry about.

  38. Looks beautiful!

    I have my hardware ready to be painted, but I’m not sure how to treat the galvanized metal. How did you clean yours so the paint would adhere? Vinegar? Turpentine?

    Also, what kind of paint did you use?

    Thanks!

  39. Looks beautiful!

    I have my hardware ready to be painted, but I’m not sure how to treat the galvanized metal. How did you clean yours so the paint would adhere? Vinegar? Turpentine?

    Also, what kind of paint did you use?

    Thanks so much!

  40. Brilliant!!! How do we begin to thank you for sharing this???

    Quick question: How is the spray paint holding up on the hardware? Does it start chipping once the door gets used?

    Thank you so much.

    1. Catherine,
      The spray paint is holding up great because nothing rubs on it. The rollers are inside the track. So once we sprayed it and hung it, there’s nothing there to scratch it off!

  41. So Im thinking about installing a barn door for our half bath, but I was concerned about the privacy. Do you feel like you have the same amount of privacy with the barn door as you did with a regular door? TIA! 🙂

    1. Katy,
      There is a teeny tiny gap between the door and the wall (more than a regular door). So that might make it a little less private. And there is the locking issue – ours doesn’t lock. You can easily add and little lock though. This door works great for our master bath, but your guests might want a little more privacy for a half bath. Just a thought 🙂

  42. This looks awesome!! As for the box rail where did you buy it? Does it come with the box rail attachments?

    Thanks
    Stephanie

  43. I’m getting ready to tackle this project. I would just like to know what type/size bolts were used to secure the 2X4’s to the studs in the wall. Thank you.

  44. Thank you so very much for posting this on Pinterest! We have been looking for an affordable way to install barn sliding doors in our turn of the century style farm house. Everything we have seen has been hundreds of dollars. This is not only doable, but cost effective too.

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  49. Fantastic step-by-step!! Thank you so much for taking the time to do that! We are hanging an enormous (8’x9′) door that my husband built in our master bedroom for the closet. I was just wondering if you think your door is irritatingly noisy?? TSC also sells hangers with rubber wheels, which I assume would be quieter, but then you have to buy a round track and I just don’t like the looks of it as well. Would your door wake up your husband when you open it!?!?

    Thanks, love your blog!!

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  54. We have a 30 inch door and 30 inch space next to door. Is that enough room or do we need the wall to be longer?

  55. FYI,

    Most paint will not adhere to galvanized metal. Sooner or later it will start to peel off.

    Making sure you wash the metal with a oil removing solution then using a water based latex is one of the only ways to make it last.

    How is it holding up so far two years later?

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  56. I’m want to do this at home where we have two 2′ doors leading into the bathroom. We have oak trim. I think it would be best to leave the trim up but I’m not sure what to do with the door frame where the hinges are located. If I remove them there will be a large gap in the door frame. Do you have any suggestions?

  57. Wow! You just saved my wife an I $300-$1000! We are going to do this same thing with a set of double doors. Your final product looks amazing, my wife is going to loose it when she sees this DIY…looks like I know what I’ll be doing for the next 3 weekends. lol Thank you!

  58. Suzie, this is a very nice job. However, there is one thing I don’t see referenced, and that is the back of the door. How is it finished? I’m asking because I make and install beautiful things for the interior design profession, and one of my clients is having a cow over getting me to make some sliding doors, and installing them for her.

    The problem is that the customer tends to go into the other room, shut the door, and then had to eyeball it on that side as well. If it doesn’t look professionally finished, they become very upset and demand a refund. It would be nice to know what you did there as well.

    Also, you mentioned, on part one, that the pieces would not stick to the plywood when using the liquid nails. Just remember, that is not plywood, but particle board. Your best bet would have been to go with OSB instead. It uses waterproof glue, and is lighter weight. I use it all the time for my padded and upholstered cornices.

  59. Hello!
    I love your door! I am wanting to do two full doors together. In this case, would you say to simply get two of everything you purchased as far as the hardware goes and place the tracks close together? Or do you think it would be better to get one full track intended for two doors?

  60. Hi
    very glad to found your site. clear instructions. and thank you for the links. I was wondering, i see that you cut the trolley track to twice your barn door width. do you think its okay to do less ?
    my door is 34″ width, and I was wondering if I could get away with “48” width trolley track. that means when the door is open all the way, it will hang on the 14″ part of the trolly track. or most likely the door will not open all the way.
    if yes, then I could use one trolley track for 2 doors to save some bucks. I suppose if it holds up the weight of the door. hmmm. i live in a condo so the doors are fire proof so they are extremely heavy. probably should use the full length 68″. I would like to hear your advice.

    Katie.

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  62. My husband and I just made this door! Well…one very similar. We did a couple things differently, but we used the overall design. Thank you for sharing this tutorial!!

  63. Thanks for the awesome tutorial! I loved that you had links of where to buy all of the supplies! Super helpful! We just completed our today using your tutorial! I wish I could attach a picture to show you!

  64. Love it! I was just telling my husband that I want to remodel our down stairs bath to make it more handicap accessible. #1 by widening the door opening and putting a sliding door on there. #2 Replacing the vanity with a smaller one. I think I going to locate a wine barrel and try my hand at turning it into a sink.

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  67. HI I love the door, but I so want to see a picture of the other side…..How does it look from outside? Any chance of sending along a picture?

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